Progression

Sometimes we don’t even notice it until there’s some kind of backstep. In some ways it’s constantly there but we usually need to measure it in order to appreciate it. Doesn’t matter how big it is, we always get hungry for more. What an odd little thing progress can be.

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Photo: David Tomlinson

In December I’ve set a new personal best by doing Willenberg Dach (8A) in Chironico within just a few sessions. This got me really excited to climb on rock as much as possible during my semester break. But then a lot of snow in the southern part of Switzerland kept us from climbing outside over the holidays, so I was forced to spend most of the time in the gym. The new year came and with it I started my preparation for the upcoming season. Right now training is in full swing and I feel pretty sore most of the time, just like every year. However, this year is a little different. I‘ve changed a few things in my training which didn‘t seem very significant at first but it made all the difference. After only four weeks I could feel a massive improvement in my finger strength.


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Photo: David Tomlinson

The holds on my outdoor projects all of a sudden felt way better and moves that had caused me a lot of trouble before suddenly went down smoothly. I finally finished Hannibal Lecter (7B+/7C) and La Pioche (7B+), two classics in Cresciano that always felt really hard to me. Last week we had an outdoor training camp with the swiss team. Since there was too much snow in Fontainebleau we went to Ticino instead. Turned out to be a good call, although it was pretty cold, conditions were prime all week. We were lucky enough to spend two beautiful days in Brione and despite some snow and ice most problems were dry and climbable, among them my long term project Frogger (8A). After warming up on the upper part of the problem I sat down to try the first move. When I caught the little pinch, I was so surprised I let go. I‘ve tried this move countless times and just barely stuck it about 3-4 times, unable to continue. Now I could do it several times in a row, just like that! I could hardly contain my excitement and it took me a couple more tries to place my heel correctly. Pretty unexpected, after 4 years of trying this problem on and off, I finally took it to the top! Fingers numb, forearms pumped but a huge smile all over my face I simply sat there unable to process what had just happend. This is the longest I‘ve ever worked on a boulder problem. Not only does it feel pretty damn great to put this project to rest, it also motivates me to see how much I‘ve progressed and grown as a climber since first trying this line back in 2014.


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Photo: David Tomlinson

In addition to that, I also climbed Black Pearl (7C+/8A), a great roof climb which sadly got chipped a little while back. Unfortunately I’ve never been to this boulder before it got chipped but it still climbs exceptionally well! Here’s a little video I made, I hope you like it!


Down South from nat on Vimeo.

Now it‘s not long until the first competitions and I‘m looking forward to the next phase of training, it‘s gonna be hard but fun! Couldn’t do it without all the motivated people around me, training alone is not even half the fun, you guys rock! ♥


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Photo: David Tomlinson

Last but not least, I‘m very excited to announce my new partnership with Five Ten and prAna. Two brands I‘ve always admired for their high quality products and I couldn‘t be happier about their support! Together with Petzl they provide me with the best products I can imagine, what more could I wish for? Thank you so much! ?